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Education

How to Mix Realistic Skin Colors and Avoid the Chalky or Muddy Look

Adam Clague OPA · Jan 1, 2024 · 3 Comments

OPA will be taking Deep Dives into our archives and sharing our favorite posts from years past. Please enjoy this Deep Dive by Adam Clague OPA from 2019.

Sam by Adam Clague OPA Oil – 12″ x 14″

Mixing skin colors can be challenging. Flesh often contains hints of every color of the rainbow! Plus, it’s easy for skin tones to become “chalky” or “muddy.” In this article, I’ll share information to help you mix realistic, lively flesh colors.

Simplify

When I’m mixing skin colors, I often find it convenient to dip into every color on my palette. To simplify this process, I think of flesh as containing just three types of colors:

1. Reds
2. Yellows
3. “Nudge Colors” (I’ll define this in a second)

Taylor by Adam Clague OPA Oil – 10″ x 8″

I find simplifying like this is an efficient approach to painting any skin color under typical conditions.

Mix Up Big Piles Of Average Colors

By “average” colors, I mean colors that represent the colors in the subject generally. I know you can see dozens of colors in your subject. But in the beginning, keep things simple and don’t try to match every color you see right away. You can mix more specific colors later with those “nudge colors” I’ll talk about.

At the start, I mix up just 2 big piles of average color–1 average color for the lit side of the head and 1 average color for the shadowed side (below, you can see these two colors applied in broad, blocky shapes).

Becca WIP
by Adam Clague OPA
Oil – 12″ x 11″

Nudge as Needed

So what is a “nudge color” anyway?

Well, mixing just red and yellow together can produce some pretty intense oranges that may not look natural as flesh colors. For this reason, it’s usually necessary to “nudge” your mixture toward one color or another by mixing in other color(s)— “nudge colors.”

Below are two examples of average color mixtures I often start out with. In both cases, white is used as a nudge color. The white both lightens and cools the original orange color.

Example 1: Lemon, permanent alizarin crimson & white.
Example 2: Yellow ochre, permanent red medium & white.

Now, although I often start with the above mixtures, I certainly also mix in various other nudge colors as necessary. Sometimes your subject will dictate a nudge toward green in places. Or blue. Or violet. In fact, any other color on your palette is a candidate for a nudge color.

How Do I Know Which Reds, Yellows and Nudge Colors to Use?

Excellent question. My best answer is let your subject be your guide. Choose colors that are appropriate for the values, temperatures and colors in the subject. In the end, observe your subject with care and faithfully paint the colors you see before you. Much more important than any formula is the process of training your eye to observe and paint faithfully.

Now that we’ve explored how to simplify and mix skin colors, let’s take a look at a common difficulty:

Muddy & Chalky Skin Tones

Judy by Adam Clague OPA
Oil – 12″ x 12″

It’s happened to all of us who have ever attempted to paint a portrait…

You’ve been painting that cherub of a child. You’ve been carefully trying to match the colors of that perfect, unblemished skin. You think you’ve nailed those rosy cheeks, that fair flesh, that sandy blonde hair.

But then you stand back from your work and… wow. Those cheeks are definitely rosy… like the red soil of Arizona. That skin is exactly as fair as chalk dust. And that hair is sandy, alright. Just like… well, sand.

If only you had a chart of “skin-tone recipes” written by some Betty Crocker of the art world that would tell you exactly how to whip up big batches of “Satin Skin” and “Ethereal Epidermis” instead of the “mud,” “dirt” and “chalk” currently on your palette.

Fortunately, the cure for “muddy” or “chalky” color is not an unobtainable fantasy. In his book Alla Prima: Everything I Know About Painting, master artist Richard Schmid sheds light on this topic…

“’Muddy color’… is simply a color that is inappropriate in temperature” —Richard Schmid

“Muddy” and “chalky” color is not so much a color issue as it is a temperature issue. So let’s talk temperature…

Temperature Basics

Emily by Adam Clague OPA
Oil – 10″ x 8″

Here is the first thing to understand about temperature: When you’re painting, there is no such thing as “warm” and “cool.” There is only “warm-er” and “cool-er.” It’s relative–a color is only cool-er or warm-er compared to another color.

Therefore, a “muddy” or “chalky” skin tone is a color that is either too cool or too warm compared to the surrounding colors.

Side-Note: A color might also look “muddy” or “chalky” if it’s the wrong value. For example, a shape that’s too dark on a portrait will look like just that–a dark smudge on the face. But given the value is correct, the reason a color looks “muddy” or “chalky” is that it’s either too warm or too cool in comparison to the surrounding colors.

But of course, this information is useless unless you know how to fix a mixture that’s too warm or too cool…

Two Ways You Can Make A Color Warmer Or Cooler

1: By Moving Around the Color Wheel Like a Clock

First, however, here are two important things to know: 1) the red-orange-yellow side of the color wheel is considered “warmer” than the green-blue-violet side, which is considered “cooler.” 2) Most consider either bright yellow or yellow-orange the very warmest color. Blue is considered the coolest color (However, there’s an exception that I’ll mention in a bit…)

Now, imagine you’re traveling around this color wheel like the hand of a clock. The closer you move toward the cooler side, the cooler the color will become. The closer you move toward to the warmer side, the warmer the color will become.

Here are two examples:

Let’s say you’re standing on that very warmest color–a bright yellow-orange. You take one step clockwise toward the green. Now, you’re standing on a yellow that’s tinted with a hint of green. This yellow-green is cooler than the yellow-orange because you’ve moved closer to the cooler side of the color wheel.

This time, start out on violet. Take one step counter-clockwise toward the blue. Now, you’re standing on blue-violet, which is cooler than violet because it’s closer to blue and because you’ve moved further away from the warmer side of the color wheel.

The 2nd way you can make a color warmer or cooler is…

2. By Moving Along Imaginary Spokes of the Color Wheel

Earlier, I said blue is considered the coolest color, but I mentioned there’s an exception…

It’s true that blue is the coolest color of the rainbow. However, for the painter, there is one other color so icy, it gives blue frostbite… pure white.

In this particular color wheel, you’ll notice there is a narrow ring that contains the main colors in their most saturated forms (1)…

The farther you travel away from this ring toward the center of the circle, the more white is added (2).

Adding white will cool any other color… even blue!

Did you find this lesson valuable? Watch me demonstrate these
principles on video in my online course, “Learn to Paint Dynamic
Portraits & Figures in Oil.” You can access the first unit for free! To
learn more, please visit ClagueFineArt.com.

The Student
by Adam Clague OPA
Oil – 12″ x 9″

The Wrong Color Wheel

Qiang Huang · Nov 28, 2022 · 26 Comments

When I was a child, I wanted to be an artist. I read books on drawing and painting. I also learned some basics about color. All the teachings about color always start with introducing the 3 primary colors: red, yellow, and blue. We cannot get primary colors by mixing other colors. If we mix two primary colors, we will get the secondary colors, which are orange, green, and purple. If we arrange the primary and secondary colors into a circle, we get a color wheel. For the convenience of further discussion, we call this color wheel the conventional color wheel (shown as Fig. 1).

Fig. 1 Conventional color wheel

From the color wheel, I have learned the complementary colors. They are the two colors on the opposite sides of the color wheel. So red and green, yellow and purple, blue and orange are three pairs of complementary colors. I also learned that if we mix two complementary colors together equally, we will get a neutral grey. 

I never doubted the correctness of this color theory because all the teachings are the same. Even now, if you ask an artist to teach you about color, you probably hear the same thing. Since everybody talked about the same thing, it must be correct. So, I used this color model in my painting practice. After I started, I realized that color was not easy. It is not as simple as the three primaries, and mixing a correct color was a difficult thing. Many teachers give a formula to mix certain colors, and many artists have a special palette and use specific brands of paint to get the color effects they want. All of those theories, I have learned, do not have much of a practical use, and color became a highly experience-based empirical practice.

However, this kind of color practice bothered me. Before I turned into a full-time artist, I worked as an engineer for many years. My rational mind felt uncomfortable when I saw how artists dealt with color so ambiguously. I started to examine my understanding of color, and tested the correctness of theory with experiments. The first test I conducted was the complementary relationship. 

From what I have learned, I mix (1) red (cadmium red medium) and green (permanent green), (2) orange (cadmium orange deep) and blue (cobalt blue), (3) yellow (cadmium yellow light) and purple (manganese violet). I have added a little white to make the mixed color easy to see. The results of the above color mixings are shown as Fig. 2 below.

Fig. 2 Complementary color mixing experimental results

From the results we can see: 1) Red/green mixing gives a dirty yellow color, and it does not give us neutral grey. 2) Yellow/purple mixing gives a dirty red color, and it does not give neutral grey either. 3) Blue/orange mixing is really close to a neutral grey. In order to show the results more vividly, I put the true neutral grey next to the mixed colors. From this experiment, we have concluded that 2 of 3 of the conventional given primary/secondary color pairs are NOT complementary. If we stretch, we might see they are almost complementary. Please do not take my word for it. If you do the experiments yourself, you will know that I am telling the truth.

Now we have confirmed that the conventional color theory is not right, but it is not the end of the research. The immediate next question is: then what are the “correct” primary and secondary colors? What does the “correct” color wheel look like? With those questions, I continued my research. I have found other artists and scientists have noticed the same problem and the most of them accepted that the “good” color theoretical model was the Munsell color system.

Albert Munsell proposed his color system in 1905. He had mentioned that there are five fundamental colors. They are red, yellow, green, blue, and purple. He evenly placed these five colors on a color wheel. Most astonishingly, orange was not selected by Munsell. He called orange “yellow-red” and it is considered subsidiary to the fundamental colors. We may call it a Munsell secondary color.  I have made a Munsell color wheel shown as Fig. 3 below.

Fig. 3 Munsell color wheel

Now, let’s put only the 3 primary and 3 secondary colors from the conventional wheel on the Munsell color wheel. It looks like Fig. 4 below.

Fig. 4 Placement of conventional primary and secondary colors on Munsell color wheel

We can tell immediately that red/green and yellow/purple are no longer complementary. However, blue/orange is still complementary. We also tested the complementary relationships between the Munsell fundamental and secondary colors. We have proved they have true complementary relationships. For the color red, yellow, and blue, their corresponding complementary colors are blue-green, purple-blue, and yellow-red.

After I studied Munsell color theory I noticed another ambiguous area of the color system. Our definitions (or vocabulary) of color are quite vague. For instance relating to the color red, there are so many different kinds of reds. The color red is not one specific color, it covers a group of slightly different colors. We even give specific names to many specific reds, such as crimson, scarlet, maroon, and so on. Even the color pigments make so many different red paints such as cadmium red, alizarin, venetian red, and so on.

This crude way of defining colors makes me go deeper to study the color theory. I looked into the numerical model of defining colors. Munsell had talked about his numerical model for all the colors. In a nutshell, every color can be precisely defined by three numbers (or color coordinates): hue, chroma, and value. The Munsell color system has been published with a set of color charts. We can obtain the color coordinates of any specific color by matching the color sample with a specific color swatch in Munsell color charts. Although the Munsell color system was established more than 100 years ago, it is still commonly used by paint manufacturers and artists.

Time goes by so quickly, now we are living in a time when technology develops extremely fast. New pigments have been invented and we artists have many more colors to use than Munsell’s time. There are many vibrant colors we cannot get in the Munsell color coordinates since the Munsell charts are so limited. This problem has led me to study the computer color system.

I am going to skip the process of how the computer scientists developed their color system. I just simply present the color wheel that the computer color system uses. The following Fig. 5 is the computer color wheel. 

Fig. 5 Computer color wheel

It is quite interesting that we can see that the computer color wheel is very similar to the Munsell color wheel, so I can predict that the complementary color relationship is correct on the computer color wheel. The color coordinates of the computer color system are very similar to the Munsell system. They can be converted back and forth. 

If we still want to use the concepts of three primary colors that we learned before, we can see there are two sets of primary colors. One set is red, green, and blue, (or RGB) and the other set is cyan (turquoise), yellow, and magenta (red purple) called the CYM system. These two sets of primaries are complementary to each other shown in Fig. 6

Fig. 6 Computer primary colors

I am so glad my color research has clarified my color understanding. I feel much more confident when I use colors now.

Many artist friends might wonder why we should be bothered to understand the color wheel so rigorously. What is the practical use of this understanding? My answer is: it will help you to mix neutral grey much more easily. For instance, you may ask why blue and yellow are complementary on the computer color wheel? From your knowledge and experience, blue and yellow should give you green, not grey. Is that right? The answer is that the computer “blue” is very specifically defined. It is a violet blue. So it is complementary to yellow. The second reason is that human eyes are more sensitive to perceive greens in comparison with other hues. Any dirty green will appear very green to us. 

This clarification of color wheels is a tip of the iceberg in the color science. It gives me the curiosity to go deeper. I am happy to have a chance to talk about it with all of you.

The Role of Color Temperature in Painting

M Kathryn Massey OPA · Jan 4, 2021 · Leave a Comment

When I wrote my book on painting with a concept, I listed five key elements for creating a  workable, harmonious painting: Values, Edges, Paint Quality (integrity of the paint), Agent  (you as the painter guiding the work), and finally, Color/Temperature. It’s the last element I’d like to explore here. 

When I began to paint, I saw local color first and foremost. It’s easier to see than values and edges. Beautiful reds, blues and yellows naturally draw the eye much like impasto  (opaque) paint will. Color, or the lack of color, has an inherent emotional feature. 

It’s generally accepted that color begins and ends with the Color Wheel. I never saw the relationship to the color wheel and the painting problems that were before me. Many teachers use it as an absolute truth to be rigidly followed. But, the color wheel is NOT an absolute truth. It only represents a theory. Theories are not absolute-they are grounded in principles but don’t contain the truth in an ultimate way.  

A theory merely points us in a direction.  

Included is an image of my palette used when I teach. To help students, I list below each color whether I view it as a warm color, or a cool color. To me, the neutrals, including Naples Yellow, are all cool; the yellows are warm with the exception of Lemon Yellow, which appears cool because it has less warmth than the other yellows on my palette. Likewise, Cadmium Red Light is the only red that appears warm. Alizarin and the other Cad Reds appear cool.  

Cadmium Red Light mixed with black and white (both neutrals)  Notice the neutrals achieve two things: the value of the Cad Red Light, a warm red, is changed and the temperature. (The temperature of the red is made cooler.)

The Blues are all cool with the exception of Ultramarine Blue. It’s the warmest Blue in the family of blues meaning it reads warmer than the others because of its mixture when produced and those materials used to create the paint Ultramarine Blue.  

Think about Cerulean, Thalo, Cobalt, King’s Blue…..they are very cool when used next to UM Blue. In a warm set up or composition, I would use UM Blue to complement the other components of a warm set up. 

Yellow Ocher is an interesting color. I paint with it to warm a background or turn an edge (cool).  It seems to absorb whatever temperature is placed near it. It’s an opaque paint so it has the quality of a neutral or cool hue. But, if painting a white cup, you could mix some yellow ocher to develop a shadow plane. It won’t drop the value too much but can assist the shadow in anchoring the object. Painting with black as a shadow for white objects is too abrupt or harsh. To me it reads “dead on arrival.” 

Two Pears by M Kathryn Massey OPA 
9″ x 12″ – Oil

As we grow as painters, we begin to develop our own language and that language includes color choices. We become more sensitive to how temperature plays a role in our work. For me, I reach for a color based on its temperature and what is needed by the painting. What do I  mean? 

Let’s say you are painting a portrait. The subject is Caucasian and fair. Most of the flesh you paint will be colorless. But, there are moments on the face you want to come forward and show the topography of that particular fair model. Conversely, there are moments in the picture that will need to recede, or turn back. 

Cad Red LT is warm and it will read closer to the viewer. Cad Red Med/Cad Red Dark will recede more than Cad Red LT. Why? Because the Medium and Dark have more blue in them when they are produced as a color. Blue is a color which recedes. 

The principle here: Warm colors appear to advance; Cool colors appear to recede and give the painting a sense of air space and time. You must decide on the color structure of your painting EACH TIME you go to the easel.

A Word About Neutrals. 

Commissioned work in progress.  
Cosmo by M Kathryn Massey OPA
14″ x 11″ – Oil
Notice how little color is seen thus far in the painting with the dog being black and white; both cool, neutral colors.  

Neutrals are used to change both the value and the temperature of a color. In principle, Black,  White, Grey, and Naples Yellow are used to cool down a color OR, to change its value.  Because they are cool, when mixed with any other color they will immediately cool that color  AND change its value. This is why I view color and temperature as married. I don’t understand them as being separate. Temperature changes are paramount to good painting.  

We don’t know these more advanced ideas when we begin to paint. How can we?  In closing, a few thoughts on color: 

-If you are having trouble incorporating a color into your work, take it off your palette for a  month or so. See if you can achieve what you need without it. 

-Each family of reds, blues, greens, yellow, blacks, etc., are warmer or cooler within the family of that color. Determine for yourself which is warmer and which is cooler within the family of color. 

-Using both cool and warm temperatures in the same painting will make more color disharmony and tension. (Think Vuillard) 

-A still life up, a model, an interior, etc., will be either warm or cool as a concept. Use the paints that will depict your concept. 

-Use a neutral to turn an object away from the viewer so the illusion of dimension is realized.  Do not use pink, red, yellow, orange for instance to turn an object as it goes into shadow. The illusion won’t work. Use cool grey, blue, or violet to help with your conceptual illusion. 

-If you break any principle in painting, know why you are breaking the principle.

-There are no mistakes…..only better choices.

Melon with Grapes by M Kathryn Massey OPA
20″ x 16″ – Oil

How Do Your Paintings Sound?

Mark Daly · Dec 28, 2020 · Leave a Comment

Leveraging All of Your Senses to Create More Impactful Paintings

The importance of a strong composition is well known to painters. Once a good design is selected, we make choices and adjustments using our toolbox of techniques to create a  successful outcome. Some of these techniques include imagination, values, edges, paint application, color, line, and harmony. There is an underutilized technique to consider adding to your painter’s toolbelt: leveraging the dynamic senses of sound, feel, smell, and taste. 

After selecting a composition to paint, I ask this question: “How should this painting sound to  best reinforce the composition?” Adjusting the question by inserting other senses (feel, smell,  taste) identifies additional sense-based choices to consider adding to the composition. Answers to these questions are prioritized and worked into the artwork, as appropriate. 

Having a musical background, sound is a sense I gravitate towards. To reveal my approach, let’s  review a recent example of how I answered the question, “How should this painting sound to  best reinforce the composition?” The example is titled “Paris Rain”. It is shown below.

Paris Rain by Mark Daly, 2020
30″ x 24″ – Oil

I’ll discuss five sense-of-sound answers that I chose to incorporate into “Paris Rain.” Similar to edges, there are harder and softer sounds. As such, I consider intensity and variety. I also take into account pitch and location to determine how and where to visually portray sound in a  composition. 

1. Swirling Water Flow (softer sound, close to viewer) 

The first subtle sound that was added to reinforce the composition is in the lower-left quadrant of the painting. The runoff of rain, as it flows down the sidewalk and into and around the drain,  adds a rainy day swirling sound to the scene. This is a softer sound. It offers variety to harder sounds. 

2. Slapping Windshield Wipers (harder sound, nearest vehicle shape to viewer) A second, sense-of-sound addition to “Paris Rain” is the windshield wiper on the Mini Cooper vehicle (located center left). This was done with a single upward brushstroke. It brings a  distinctive slapping (harder) sound to the scene. It connects the viewer to a sound that occurs when it is raining. The wiper blade was added to only the largest vehicle shape (closest to the viewer). The mind fills in the blanks through association. It “hears” windshield wipers on the other vehicles after seeing the one on the Mini Cooper. 

3. Swooshing Vehicles (varying background noise) 

The third sound included in the painting is the swooshing of the approaching vehicles. The choice of vehicles communicates varying noises. These range from the low-frequency rumble of the bus to the high pitched whines from motorcycles. They add authenticity to a rainy day  European city experience. 

4. Raindrops Hitting Umbrellas (harder sound, close to ears) 

The fourth example of intentionally adding sound to enhance the picture is the tilted, wet umbrellas. We all know the close-to-the-ear pitter-patter sound of rain hitting a tightly stretched water-repellant fabric. The visual cue of the angled wet umbrellas engages you in the scene. It connects you to a personal experience—the sound of rain beating on an umbrella a few inches away from your ears. 

5. Splashing Footsteps (moderate sound, near viewer) 

The fifth and last example of adding a visual sound clue is less obvious. It is the anticipation of the large figure’s foot (center right) about to step on to wet pavement. Raising the left foot adds more audible drama. The viewer anticipates a slapping, splashing sound. The dark foreground reflection of the figure deliberately leads you into the painting and to this foreseen sound. 

These five sense-of-sound choices (among others) are designed into the painting along with value, edge, paint application, color, line, and harmony decisions. As shown in the image below, the sounds are spread around the center of interest. Collectively, they reinforce the main idea of the composition (the emotional experience of a rainy day in Paris). They help to create a more convincing, successful scene.

Variety of Sounds Spread Around Center of Interest

Another way to look at the power of these audible cues is to delete them. Imagine the painting without the swirling water, slapping windshield wipers, swooshing vehicles, pitter-patter rain on umbrellas, and foot about to splash a wet surface sounds. “Paris Rain” would sound different. Its impact and emotional connection with the viewer would be reduced. 

Let’s look at another example of leveraging senses but in a different location and season. Winter cityscapes provide opportunities to have the viewer feel cold and warmth. Below is a recent example titled “Art Deco Building in Winter”. On the one hand, grey clouds, heavy clothing, blowing flags, and snow-lined buildings all reinforce the feel of the painting’s winter-based composition. On the other hand, a feeling of warmth emanates from the lights on the streetlamps, store windows, cab, buildings, and glowing globes above the fence. These visuals provide a welcome contrast to the cold features. Through the sense of feel, the cold and warm elements amplify the compositional intent.

Art Deco Building in Winter by Mark Daly, 2020
30” x 24” – Oil
Exhibited in OPA 2020 Eastern Regional. Semi-Finalist in the 15th ARC Salon Competition. Best Building Award in the PleinAir Salon 10th Annual Competition (August, 2020)

The last painting example, “A New York Treat,” demonstrates the senses of smell and taste. Portraying smoke rising from chestnuts roasting on a NYC side walk vendor food cart adds smell to the painting. It helps connect the viewer to the memorable taste of chestnuts that are sold under colorful umbrella-topped carts found along the streets of New York City. 

A New York Treat by Mark Daly, 2019
12” x 9” – Oil

As painters, we are not confined to a two-dimensional world. There are ways to add dynamic impact through all five senses. Before starting your next painting, be open to new possibilities to expand your toolkit. Ask the question: “How should this painting sound (feel, taste, smell) to  best reinforce the composition?” It will set your paintings apart from others. It will make a  more emotional connection with your viewers. 

Painting and Parenting

Ashlee Trcka · Jul 13, 2020 · Leave a Comment

Many people with young children wonder if they can paint at home while their children are still young and not in school. The answer is yes! I questioned whether it could be done and doubted my efforts initially. I would tell myself one day, when the children are in school I’ll paint again. The opportunity to paint always seemed to be replaced with child care and household chores as many of us do.

My name is Ashlee and I’m a stay at home mom with three children under 5 years old. I’m also a prolific oil painter with a passion for painting and a drive to create. As painters we share a creative spirit, it’s a part of who we are. For those of us with young children, it can be difficult to find the time to paint. With good time management skills and structure to your day, you can paint and enjoy time with your kids. In fact, the two can compliment each other beautifully. 

 A typical structured day throughout the week typically looks like this; each morning I will set aside an hour of painting while the kids are enjoying snack time and doing their crafts. This routine allows me time to paint and the kids get to be creative as well. It’s important to step away from your painting to clear your mind and refresh your ideas. That is why after an hour we all clean up and enjoy outdoor time together. It’s helpful as a painter to simply leave it for a while. Once everyone has had some fun and lunch I will set aside another quiet hour for myself and keep the kids occupied with educational activities. Does this always run smoothly? No not always, lots of times I have to be prepared to stop and assist the kids if they need me but otherwise this sort of daily schedule flows nicely and keeps everyone happy. 

Painting and parenting can go hand in hand. It takes determination and a genuine passion for our craft to maintain a consistent painting schedule but if you structure your day in such a way that the kids also benefit from creativity it will definitely be a great day and you’ll find that you’re painting just as you always could. So don’t put it aside, make the time for yourself and everyone will benefit. Cheers and happy painting!

“The Ravioli Kitchen” by Ashlee Trcka
12″ x 16″ – oil on linen canvas

 http://www.ashleetrcka.com/

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